This season’s Pét Nat Pinot Noir, in addition to all the joy it brings to drink, can be almost as pleasurable just to open up and sit and watch… a veritable lava lamp of lees. Unmistakably and purely Pinot Noir on the nose, just-ripe raspberries on the palate. So many processes of control go into making a Champagne, while Pét Nat is permitted to largely create itself. Where last vintage resulted in a sort of wild, messy, walk-of-shame debauchery, this vintage is tidy and compartmentalised, with a glittery bead and velveteen mousse. Good, clean, bubbly fun. 100% Lenswood Pinot Noir. Whole-bunch pressed to concrete ‘egg’ fermenter. Fermented until nearly dry.